Tag Archives: how-to

How To: Knit Binding

19 Jun

I have no idea what the directions for the binding of my one pattern many looks challenge is actually suppose to be sewn down.  I tried flipping the binding to the inside, but it was very thick and didn’t lay right.  But I forged on and sewed it anyway.  I should remember to not do that.

And don’t you know, I didn’t know about this potential problem until after I was already almost done with it.  Why do the most and worst mistakes happen then?

But I found this video from Threads magazine, and it was very helpful

knit binding

These are the basic steps

  1. Cut out a binding strip parallel with the stretchiest part of your fabric
  2. Fold your garment in half and your binding in half
  3. “Measure” how much binding you will need by taking the binding and stretching it around the neckline.  You will stretch it more for curves, and less for non curvy parts.
  4. Sew binding strip together and pin to your garment in fourths
  5. Attach to neckline stretching it the same way you did when you measured it (more for curves, less for non curves)
  6. Ta Da!  Flat knit binding!

So I cut off the binding I did, and re-did it this way.  It may not be the way the directions say to do it (or maybe it is.. since I didn’t understand the directions at all) but I did it anyway.

It turned out okay I think.  It’s much better than version 1, that’s for sure.

Have you run into any sewing gotchas at the last minute?


How to machine baste

14 Jun

Now, this may seem fairly obvious to you, but when I first started to “baste” my seams using my sewing machine, I was doing it wrong.  Well maybe wrong is a bit harsh.  I wasn’t doing it as well as I could.  There was no obvious “baste” setting on my machine so I just sewed with the largest stitch length (4).

I always felt like this was difficult to undo, even though it was the largest stitch length available to me.  Aren’t basting stitches suppose to more or less come right out?

Turns out there is a trick to machine basting.


  1. Adjust your machine for a straight stitch (on my machine this is 2), longest stitch length (on my machine this is 4)
  2. The trick-> Adjust your tension for the loosest tension (on my machine between 1-0).  The loosest tension part is really important!  If you plan on taking your basting stitches out later it really really helps in allowing you to just pull the thread loose.  You may not even need the seam ripper to get the stitches out.  It’s that cool.